Seiko SSK023

The Seiko SSK025 GMT is a military-inspired field watch with a sporty GMT function, making it a versatile choice for travelers and adventurers. The brushed stainless steel case gives it a rugged, tool-watch aesthetic, while the fixed 24-hour bezel in brushed steel gives it an Explorer II-like design without looking like a seiko mod copy cat.

The black dial features bold Arabic numerals with a 24-hour inner ring, making it easy to read at a glance. Between the texture added to the dial, and the bright contrasting lettering, there is a lot of character for a simple field watch design. The orange GMT hand, tip of the second hand, and matching "GMT" print in the lower center of the dial add some much needed flash and pizzaz.

Completing the look is the matching stainless steel bracelet, which is usually a point of contention for Seiko lovers. Seiko bracelets are functional, but they lack the tight tolerances or heavyweight feeling of a more expensive brands bracelet. Seiko watches are such good value for the money, its easy to forget how inexpensive they are when critisizing the bracelet. In the case of this watches Five-link bracelet, it feels wonderful. Its surprisingly sturdy, heavyweight, and solid. My least favorite part is the clasp, its only redeeming feature is the secondary fold-over lock.

20mm lug width means its perfect for strap lovers. I believe the term "strap monster" is too widely used, but that description fits this watch perfectly. The stainless steel bezel, black dial, and >40mm diameter makes this perfect for any rubber, leather, canvas, or sailcloth strap. It seriously goes with anything, my favorite is actually a dark brown rubber strap, or olive green sailcloth. They both match the hint of orange perfectly.

Stainless steel case and bracelet are ideal for daily wear and travel, however the Hardlex crystal only offers moderate scratch resistance. I would prefer sapphire, as would anybody, but for $400, its acceptable.

Inside the SSK023 is the Seiko 4R34 automatic GMT movement, a reliable and widely used caliber. It operates as a "caller GMT", meaning the 24-hour hand can be independently set, making it useful for tracking a second time zone rather than quickly adjusting to new local times. The movement runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour (6 bz) and offers a 41-hour power reserve. Accuracy falls within Seiko's standard range (-20 to +30 seconds per day) making it dependable, but a non-chronometer-rated movement.

The case wears comfortably on most wrists, down to 6". 39mm case diameter and 13.6mm thick, its more compact than most Seiko GMT models. A short lug-to-lug distance (typical Seiko) ensures it doesn't feel oversized.

One could argue the lack of a rotating bezel is a downside. The fixed bezel limits additional time zone possibilites from three, down to two, but lets be honest.. Who needs three time zones? I barely need two, living on the east coast, and my father on the west coast, is the only justifcation I have for setting the additional GMT hand. Clearly I don't travel enough to truly need a GMT.

Seiko has a long history of making durable and affordable tool watches, and the SSK023 continues that tradition. As a part of the seiko 5 sport line, it brings the brands signature reliability at an accessible price point.

While it may not hold collector status like some vintage seiko GMTs, it offers a strong value for a first GMT, or an everyday beater with travel functionality. Retailing at $400 with pre-owned secondary market models costing even less, it competes with other entry-level GMT watches, such as the Orient Kamasu GMT, or the Citizen series 8 GMT. I don't love the bezel on the Orient, and I don't love the intergrated bracelet on the Citizen. Out of the three, I would take the Seiko.

Pros: A refreshing for seiko GMTs 39mm case, reliable Seiko 4R34 GMT movement, excellent lume for the money, 100m of water resistance is plenty.

Cons: Fixed bezel limits GMT functionality, hardlex crystal instead of sapphire is disappointed but typical Seiko, A $400 watch should have a screw down crown, not a push-pull.

Technical Data:

Movement type - Automatic with manual winding

Caliber - Seiko 4R34 GMT

24 Jewels

Case Material - Brushed stainless steel

Case Size - 39.4mm diameter, 13.6 thickness, 47.9 lug-to-lug

20mm Lug width

Crystal - Curved Hardlex

Water Resistance - 10 bar

Seiko SSK023